Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) sits between two branches of the river Warta, east of the Old Town. Around the year 966, Duke Mieszko I had his stronghold here, and historians link the baptism that brought Poland into Christian Europe to this place. Today it’s the quietest corner of central Poznań: cobbled lanes, church towers and hardly any traffic.
Getting there
From the Old Market Square, walk east along Wielka Street, cross the bridge (Most Bolesława Chrobrego) and you’re on the island. It takes about twenty minutes at a relaxed pace. Trams also stop at the bridge if your legs are done.
Poznań Cathedral
The Archcathedral Basilica of St Peter and St Paul is the oldest cathedral in Poland. Rebuilt many times, it now looks mostly Gothic, with two baroque-topped towers you can see from the bridge. Behind the main altar, the Golden Chapel holds the tombs of Mieszko I and his son Bolesław the Brave, Poland’s first king. Downstairs, you can see the remains of the earliest church foundations.
Porta Posnania
On the eastern bank, Porta Posnania is an interactive heritage centre that tells the story of the island with sound, models and multimedia. It works well for anyone who isn’t a history fan, and it’s a good choice with kids. Check the opening hours before you go.
The Jordan Bridge and Śródka
The bright red footbridge behind the cathedral, the Jordan Bridge, links the island with Śródka, one of the oldest districts of Poznań. Once you’re over, look up: a huge three-dimensional mural covers the side of a tenement on the little square. It’s one of the most photographed walls in the city. Śródka has a handful of cafés and small bistros if you need a coffee before walking back.
A half-day route
- Old Market Square, see the goats at noon.
- Walk east to Ostrów Tumski (20 min).
- Cathedral and the Golden Chapel (45 min).
- Jordan Bridge to Porta Posnania and the Śródka mural (1 h).
- Walk back to the Old Town for a late afternoon pint.
Beer after the island
On the way back, aim for Żydowska Street, just north of the Old Market Square. Lot Chmiela (Żydowska 4) has a beer garden that’s perfect after a few hours of sightseeing, and a menu of Neapolitan pizza from MISKUZI. A few doors up, Wściekły Chmiel (Żydowska 10) pours from 18 taps until late.
New to Polish beer? Our guide to Polish craft beer explains what’s on the boards. And if you’ve just arrived, start with the Old Market Square guide.
Next: The best craft beer bars in Poznań · All Poznań guides
Come for a pint at Lot Chmiela
British-style craft beer pub with a beer garden, Żydowska 4, two minutes from the Old Market Square. Open daily from 4 pm, English spoken.